On the Road to kalavryta – Friends – Wine – Snow

Wine and good company - what more?

Wine and good company – what more?

 

“When men drink, then they are rich and successful and win lawsuits and are happy and help their friends. Quickly, bring me a beaker of wine, so that I may wet my mind and say something clever. “
Aristophanes, Greek playwright, (c. 448-380 BC) in The Knights

 

 Our good friend Robert, from England, visits us every year, usually in February.

As February is not exactly the time to be lounging about on a beach, we use the excuse of cold weather, to check out the inviting bars, tavernas and restaurants that the area has to offer.

We eat, drink and become merry!

After visiting us for over thirty years, Robert has his favourite places but this year we introduced him to a new one, The Cayo Nero, a friendly, lively little bar, that opened at the end of last summer in Loutraki.

MGG (My Greek God) and I love this place, be it for the superb coffee it serves in the mornings, or for drinks in the evening.

 

Cayo Nero Loutraki

Cayo Nero Loutraki

 

It didn’t take long for Robert to fall in love with it too, especially after he discovered an amazing local, red wine, on being told that it was” Red on Black” from the Mitravelas winery in Nemea, I was not at all surprised.

 

Red On Black Mitravelas Nemea

Red On Black Mitravelas Nemea

 

I’m no wine buff but in the summer I had been given a six bottle- case of Lefkes white wine, made at the same winery, it was delicious, so delicious that it didn’t last long at all!

Nemea, in the Peloponnese, produces some of the best wines in southern Greece.

The white,” Lefkes” is a Moschofilero and the “Red on Black”, an Agiorgitiko, made from a grape named Saint George.

 

Vineyards of Nemea - Peloponnese

Vineyards of Nemea – Peloponnese

 

I hadn’t noticed quite how much Robert loved this wine, or how much of it he had drunk, until the next day.

While walking past a souvlaki shop, I commented, that it was where we had eaten on the way home, the night before.

Robert had no recall of this midnight feast at all,

He was mortified, not because he had drunk too much but because he didn’t remember eating a gyro, one of the things he comes to Greece for.

We bought him another, as he felt he had not yet tried one on this trip!

 

Greek pita with gyro

Greek pita with gyro

 

We were all feeling a tad fragile after yesterday’s over indulgence and succumbed to the “siesta”, after which, more splendid wine was quaffed along with English goodies; pork pies and pork scratchings, both made by Robert’s local butcher back home in Guiseley, Leeds.

 

Wine & nibbles

Wine & nibbles

 

We made plans for the next day, Sunday, MGG suggested Kalavryta, we got out travel books, maps were checked, and websites were scrutinized, so as to be sure of not missing a thing.

The plan was for MGG to drive us to Diakofto, where Robert and I would take the little train, which winds its way through woods, mountains and gorges, to the ski resort of Kalavryta.

MGG was to drive down and meet us off the train.

 

Cog train Kalavryta

Cog train Kalavryta

 

Cog train Kalavryta

Cog train Kalavryta

 

We would go up to see the ski resort visit the mysterious cave of lakes and on to marvel at an amazing tiny church, actually situated inside a tree!

The finale was back to Kalavryta for something to eat, accompanied by wine, of course.

Sunday dawned a beautiful day, very cold but sunny, at ten o’clock we were on our way.

Robert and I caught the 11 o clock train, wound our way through some astounding scenery and were met at twelve o clock by MGG.

So far, so good.

 

Robert on the train to Kalavryta

Robert on the train to Kalavryta

 

 Kalavryta - Peloponnese

Kalavryta – Peloponnese

 

Snaking up the very winding, steep road to the ski resort, we didn’t see much snow, the snow we did see, was declared not to be “proper” snow by Robert, who was very skeptical and asked: does it ever snow in Greece?

 

Ski resort, Kalavryta

Ski resort, Kalavryta

 

Robert & MGG - Kalavryta Ski Resort

Robert & MGG – Kalavryta Ski Resort

 

Robert was very surprised when we reached the top to see that it really was a proper ski resort.

The weather was still good, just a few snowflakes in the air.

 

Ski resort, Kalavryta

Ski resort, Kalavryta

 

We had not been long in the ski chalet type coffee shop before the weather took a very sudden turn for the worse, within minutes it was a blizzard; the cars in the car park became nearly invisible and it was a veritable white out.

 

Blizzard in Kalavryta

Blizzard in Kalavryta

 

People began to leave, we followed suite, MGG reached the car first, by the time Robert and I got to the car park, we couldn’t see a thing.

If MMG hadn’t got out of the car to clear the windscreen, I really believe we wouldn’t have found him and have had to return to the chalet.

We crawled down the mountain, along with numerous coaches full of tourists, stopping frequently for cars that were putting on snow chains. Needless to say, we didn’t have any.

 

Coach in trouble - Kalavryta

Coach in trouble – Kalavryta

 

Once we slipped off the road and were kindly pushed back on by the people from the car in front.

It was treacherous, the car was slipping and sliding all over the place, on one side, was a sheer drop down the mountain and the road was very narrow!

 

Slipping & sliding in Kalavryta

Slipping & sliding in Kalavryta

 

Thanks to MGG’s excellent driving skills, we reached the bottom; I honestly did have visions of us all being stranded on the mountain, being found in a snow drift the next morning!

All hope of seeing the cave of lakes and the church in a tree were abandoned, as were the plans of eating in Kalavryta, we just wanted to get home!

We did see, what must be one of the most heartbreaking cemeteries in Greece.

During the German occupation in WWII, nearly seven hundred locals, all the men and boys over the age of fourteen, had been massacred by the German soldiers, who later burned down the surrounding villages.

This was The Massacre of Kalavryta, they are buried in the field, where they were rounded up and shot, this is the memorial to this tragic event.

 

The Massacre of Kalavryta memorial

The Massacre of Kalavryta memorial

 

Once home, it was straight off to the Cayo Nero and more wine, followed by souvlaki, as we had not eaten all day!

The next day, to recover from this terrible snow ordeal, after buying a stash of wine for the following evening at home, we spent a wonderful four hours in the Efeteo bar and restaurant in Korinth….eating and becoming very merry…again!

 

Efeteo Korinthos

Efeteo Korinthos

 

Robert will be back in September, sailing the Aegean, he tells me that there is a spare berth…….very tempting!

Until September Robert:

Eat, Drink and be Merry!

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