Jewellery and Gemstones in Ancient Greece
Ancient Greek gold bracelet inlaid with garnet, amethyst, emerald, pearl, chrysoprase, glass, and enamel, 1st century BC. Part of the Olbia treasure found in southern Ukraine during the late 1800s. Walters Art Museum. Baltimore
Lusted for by royalty and sought after by collectors, rubies, diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and many more gemstones have inspired myths, legends and curses in all cultures.
Today, we know of around two hundred natural gemstones, or semi-precious stones, when it comes to precious stones though, there are only four; ruby, sapphire, emerald and diamond.
Ruby, Sapphire, Emerald and Diamond: The Four Precious Stones
This doesn’t have to mean gemstones aren’t valuable, if of good colour and quality, they can cost a fortune!
Gemstones are found in all the colours of the spectrum, including colourless, white and black and all shades of blues, greens, reds, yellows, browns, pinks and oranges in between.
They form naturally as rough stones, it’s the expert cutting and polishing of lapidaries (gem cutters), that give gems their sparkle and colour.
How old are gemstones?
The age of gemstones varies from millions to billions of years (except pearls, which are organic and forme constantly).
The oldest gemstone formed on Earth, was found was in 2001, when a piece of natural zircon (not be confused with cubic zirconia, a synthetic imitation), was discovered in Jack Hills, Australia, which dated back to about around 4.4 billion years.
Zircon from Jack Hills, Australia, dated to 4.4 billion years old. Photo copyright John Valley, University of Wisconsin
While also mined on Earth, peridot crystals have been discovered in areas where meteorites have fallen to Earth and in mineral samples collected in space; these are fragments left over from the creation of the solar system 4.6 billion years ago!
Archeological data indicates that the oldest gemstone mined by man is lapis lazuli, used by people of the Hindu Kush region during the Neolithic period.
By around 4000 BC; the Egyptians were making gemstone jewellery using lapis lazuli and amethyst and the earliest gemstone mentioned in Chinese historical texts of around 3600 BC, is jade.
Diamonds were first mined in India around 300 BC.
Ancient Greece and Rome were using sapphires, garnets and pearls between 1600 BC and 500 BC.
Gemstones in Ancient Greece
Ancient Greek jewellery – The Ganymede collection; circa 300 BC; said to have been found near Thessaloniki, Greece. Metropolitan Museum of Art
Greece is not widely known as a source for gemstones, however, gemstones and precious stones can be found.
There are rubies from Xanthi, sapphire and beryl from Naxos Island, red-colored spessartine (a type of garnet) from Paros Island, smithsonite from the Lavrion mines and the green prase quartz variety from the island of Serifos.
Around 1600 BC, Greeks began importing precious stones via the Silk Road from India, Sri Lanka and the Far East, which they used for jewellery making and by 300 BC; they were also using semi-precious gemstones.
Owing to Alexander the Great’s influence and power, Greek jewellery designs were influenced by many cultures.
This led to the use of beautiful jewellery inlaid with a multitude of coloured stones like pearls, emeralds, garnet, carnelian, agate and peridot, as well as rock crystals.
Ancient Greek gold and garnet serpent armband 4th-3rd century BC.
Theia:
Greek goddess of gold, silver and gems
Theia, one of the Titans, Greek Goddess of Sight, who gave gold, silver and gems their shining brilliance. From the frieze of the Great Altar of Pergamon (Berlin).
In Greek mythology, Theia, also known as Euryphaessa, meaning “wide-shining”, one of the twelve Titans, daughter of earth goddess Gaia and the sky god Uranus, is the Greek goddess of sight.
She is the one who who gave gold, silver and gems their shining brilliance and is therefore also referred to as the goddess of gold, silver and gems.
Jewellery in ancient Greece
Jewellery of Ancient Greece
Ancient Greek rings. Image courtesy of IncroyableGreece
Jewellery in ancient Greece was worn not only as decoration but was seen as a symbol of power and social status (some things never change!).
It was also worn to attract love and to ward off evil and it signified a celebration of the gods and was most often worn by female members of wealthy class.
As today, ancient Greek jewellery came in all shapes and forms, rings, bracelets, necklaces and hair ornaments etc. and was mostly made from gold, inlaid with semi-precious stones, gemstones and pearls.
Much of the jewellery of the ancients has been discovered in excavated tombs.
The dead were usually buried with their personal treasures as they would be needed in the afterlife; the ancient Greeks believed that existence does not end with death; there is no death, only a transition from one state of being to another.
The Hercules Knot
Ancient Greek Gold armband with Heracles knot inlaid with emeralds and garnets. 3rd–2nd century B.C. Metropolitan Museum of Art
The Hercules knot, also known as the Love Knot and Marriage Knot, made from two intertwined ropes of fabric or gold, symbolizes love, marriage and solid commitment.
The knot was worn by brides, not only for decoration but as insurance for a long and happy marriage with unbreakable bonds, as the knot was named after the hero Hercules, known for his unparalleled strength.
It also symbolized the bride’s virginity, after the wedding the groom would undo or cut the knot.
Ancient Greek Myths and Beliefs about Precious Stones and Gemstones
Diamonds:
Tears of the gods
The word diamond derives from the Greek word ἀδάμας (adámas), meaning unbreakable or invincible.
The word diamond derives from the Greek word ἀδάμας (adámas), meaning unbreakable or invincible.
Diamonds, the hardest material on earth, are formed from carbon atoms and have a unique molecular structure, formed millions of years ago under immense volcanic heat and pressure.
These precious stones are best known for their beautiful sparkle.
Although usually colourless (white diamonds), trace minerals can tinge their colour, producing natural pink, yellow and even blue diamonds.
Ancient Greek folklore surrounding diamonds
The ancient Greeks believed diamonds were tears of the gods or broken splinters from fallen stars as, according to Greek mythology, stars were believed to have been children of the gods Eos and Astraios.
Greek philosopher, Plato, believed diamonds were living celestial spirits embodied in stones.
Diamonds were also believed to bring love between married couples and also healed cases of poisoning.
Diamonds in Greek mythology
The Mutilation of Uranus by Saturn (Kronus) by Giorgio Vasari. 16th century.
Legend has it that Chronos, the Greek God of time, transformed a young man, known as Adamas, into a beautiful stone.
This caused Adamas to become exceedingly strong, which led to him being know forever after as Adamastos, meaning diamond and adamant.
In another myth, Zeus, the most powerful Greek god, transforms some children into adamastos, derived from two words, which mean “diamond” and “adamant”.
Uranus, the ancient Greek personification of the sky, was castrated by his son Kronos (Saturn), the leader and last of the mighty Titans, using an adamant; a diamond sickle, which had been given to him by his mother, Gaia (Mother Earth).
Kronos, god of the harvest, is usually depicted with a sickle, which is used to harvest crops and also the weapon used to kill his father; Uranus.
This is not the only myth that mentions an adamant; the Greek hero, Perseus, used an adamant sickle to decapitate the Gorgon Medusa while she slept.
Perseus holding head of Medusa, bronze statue created by Benvenuto Cellini in 1554
Emeralds:
Eternal Love
The earliest mention of emeralds in western literature comes from the Greek philosopher, Aristotle.
Emeralds, which are green in colour, given by either chromium or vanadium, are made from the mineral beryl.
Their hardness is similar to that of hardened steel; however, emeralds contain natural inclusions which can cause them to be rather brittle.
The word emerald, comes from the Greek smaragdus, meaning green.
Ancient Greek myths and beliefs about emeralds
Necklace with Butterfly Pendant, made of gold, amethyst, chalcedony, emerald, rock crystal and pearl. Hellenistic, ca. late 2nd – 1st century BC, Walters Art Museum Baltimore.
Aristotle and Emeralds
The earliest mention of emeralds in western literature comes from the Greek philosopher, Aristotle, who was fascinated by the precious stone.
He was convinced that owning an emerald would increases the owner’s success in business and urged the elite, who had the means to do so, to deck out their children with emeralds.
He also believed this precious stone would bring victory in trials and improved eyesight (ancient Greeks ground emeralds into a fine powder and used it as an eye lotion).
Aristotle is known to have stated; “An emerald hung from the neck or worn in a ring will prevent the falling sickness (epilepsy).”
Aristotle’s unshakeable belief in the power of emeralds, may well be what prompted his most famous student, Alexander the Great, to have a large emerald set into his belt.
Ancient Greek gold and emerald ring dating from the First Century BC.
Emeralds and the goddess Aphrodite (Venus)
The Ancient Greeks were the first to identify emeralds with Aphrodite, the goddess of love and regarded the gem as an eternal symbol of love.
In her honour they wore emeralds on Fridays as Friday, in Latin Dies Veneris – (The Day of Venus),is named after the Goddess Venus (Aphrodite in Greek mythology).
The ancient Greek messenger god Hermes and the Emerald tablets
The emerald tablets are a series of stones supposedly inscribed with the secrets of the universe, particularly the secrets to alchemy, said to be written in an ancient Atlantean language.
The Emerald Tablet, also known as the Smaragdine (Greek for green or emerald) Tablet, a cryptic Hermetic text, is considered to be the most powerful words in the word, a veritable alchemist’s handbook.
As the Greeks identified the Egyptian god Thoth with their messenger god, Hermes, the tablet is attributed not only to the Egyptian god Toth but also to the Hellenistic figure Hermes Trismegistus.
Consequently, both gods were worshipped as one, in what had been the Temple of Thoth in Khemnu, which the Greeks called Hermopolis.
Rubies:
Power and protection
Rubies symbolize power and protection
Rubies (their name comes from the Latin word ruber meaning red), can range in hue from pale pink to a deep red.
This is owing to the presence of corundum, a crystalline form of aluminum oxide, a naturally transparent material which can have different colors depending on the presence of metal impurities in its structure.
Sapphires also contain corundum, which is why they exist in a multitude of colours, not only the more well-known blue.
The Greek Royal Rubies
Greek Queens wearing the Royal Rubies – Left to right: Queen Olga, Princess Olga, Princess Marina, Queen Frederika
Rubies didn’t feature much in ancient Greek jewellery, garnets seemed to be the gems of the day back then, however, the modern day royal family has a marvelous ruby and diamond collection.
The collection came about, when each year, King George I of Greece, presented Queen Olga with a rare pigeon-blood red ruby on their anniversary.
The Royal Greek Tiara of diamond olive leaves and ruby clusters
These anniversary rubies, which originated in Imperial Russia, eventually evolved into the Greek royal ruby collection.
The collection consists of a tiara of diamond olive leaves and ruby clusters, a necklace of ruby and diamond clusters of flexible length with detachable pendants and a pair of earrings and two brooches, one with a pendant and one without.
Greek Royal Rubies – The tiara, necklace and two brooches
Ancient Greek folklore surrounding rubies
The ancient Greeks believed rubies were so hot that their warmth could melt wax and they threw rubies into water to make it boil, that seems like the waste of a good ruby to me!
Theophrastus, Greek philosopher (371-287 BC), speculated that Rubies could very well be either male or female gender; the male stones being darker and more brilliant than the weaker female stones, which are lighter in colour and lack luster.
Nearly three hundred years later, later Pliny the Elder, Roman author, naturalist and natural philosopher, of the early Roman Empire, mentioned these same beliefs in his book of Natural History!
Rubies were considered a symbol of wealth, power, protection, passion, love, romance, danger and anger.
When worn as a talisman, rubies were believed to protect warriors in battle.
Sapphires:
The stone of destiny
Sapphires were said to be named after the Greek word of “Sapphirus” which means blue.
The name sapphire is derived from the Latin saphirus and the Greek sapheiros, both of which mean blue.
Sapphires contain the mineral corundum, a crystalline form of aluminum oxide, a naturally transparent material which can have different colors depending on the presence of metal impurities in its structure.
This is why sapphires can be found not only in the well-known deep blue but in a rainbow of colours including pink, yellow, green and grey.
Ancient Greek folklore around sapphires
Naxite – a white marble with distinct crystals of blue sapphire. The Natural History Museum and the Geological Museum of Naxos.
Rather a lot of ancient Greeks believed the world was positioned upon a huge sapphire and it was the reflection of this blue stone that gave the sky its colour.
Not only did sapphires protect the ancient Greeks, they healed them too!
It was thought they had the power to cure rheumatism, mental illness, colic and even strengthen one’s eyesight.
The sapphire was also believed to protect one from captivity, protect and even increase courage and enhance all the senses.
Connecting with the spirit world
Pythia – Priestess of Delphi by John Collier, 1891.
Sapphires were worn by the ancient Greeks, especially when visiting Pythia, the priestess of the Oracle of Delphi, as it was believed the sparkling blue gems had the ability to open their third eye, thus allowing them to communicate with the spirit world.
They were also popular with witches and necromancers who used them for alchemy, magic and healing rituals
The stone of destiny
The Asteria, or Star Sapphires, were particularly coveted, as the three lines which crossed it were believed to represent Faith, Hope and Destiny
When the stone was moved, or the light changed, a guiding star seemed to appear, which warded off evil, protecting their owners from envy and harm.
Surely it’s no coincidence that today’s amulet for warding off and giving protection against the evil eye is of a sapphire blue colour!
Today’s protection against the evil eye
The sapphire was also believed to protect one from captivity, protect and even increase courage and enhance all the senses.
Helen of Troy and the star sapphire
Helen of Troy by Dante Gabriel Rossetti (1863).
According to legend, Helen of Troy owned a large star sapphire, which was the key to her powers over both her husband, Menelaus and her abductor, Paris.
Maybe the sapphire also helped attract the many suitors Apollodorus, ancient Greek scholar and historian, would like us to believe Helen had, which, he tells us, numbered over thirty!
Pearls:
A symbol of Aphrodite (Venus) – Ancient Greek goddess of love
The ancient Greeks believed that pearls brought marital bliss and stopped young wives from crying.
Pearls, the only organic gems in the world, which grow inside mollusks, are the oldest gems in the world and have been in use for around 4300 years.
When a miniscule object or grain of sand, lodges inside a mollusk’s shell, a lustrous substance called nacre begins to form.
This slowly covers whatever the irritating object may be, making it smooth, so as to protect the soft interior of the shellfish.
As the nacre layers grow, a pearl is born; this can take up to eight years.
The size of the pearl depends on the amount of nacre laid over the irritant; the thicker the nacre, the more lustrous and reflective the pearl’s surface will be.
The word “pearl” comes from the Latin “spherus”, meaning sphere.
The ideal pearl
Pearls of many colours
Pearls require no special cutting or polishing to enhance their luster, which is the most important factor determining the quality of a pearl.
Ideally pearls should be perfectly round but these are as rare as totally unblemished pearls, usually, pearls range from “all round” to “mostly round.”
Other shapes include button, drop, mabe, keshi, baroque or circle (round with groves).
They can form naturally or be cultivated; cultivated pearls are the result of deliberately inserting a small object inside a mollusk.
Pearls are fairly soft and can be found in a variety of colours; from white to pale pink, brown or black, depending on the species of shellfish and the type of water they live in.
Ancient Greek myths and beliefs about pearls
In the Iliad, Homer refers to Greek goddess Hera (Roman – Juno), goddess of women, marriage, childbirth, childrenwearing pearl earrings, saying:
“In three bright drops, her glittering gems suspended from her ears”
An ancient greek gold Pendant with Pearls, with a solar and lunar motif inlaid with aquamarine and three dangling antique natural pearls, ca 4th century B.C.
To the ancient Greeks, the pearl was a symbol of perfection and incorruptibility, purity and beauty and as it was considered a moon symbol; the pearl signified long life and fertility, hidden knowledge and was highly feminine.
If worn on their wedding day, it was believed that pearls brought marital bliss and stopped young wives from crying.
Hellenistic Elaborate Gold Pendant with Pearls. Circa 2nd-1st Century BC.
The ancient Greek myth of Aphrodite (Venus) and pearls
Herbert James Draper, The Pearls of Aphrodite, 1907.
Pearls are a symbol of Aphrodite, the goddess of love.
In Greek mythology, it is said, that as Aphrodite, who was born from the foam of the sea, emerged from the water; droplets fell from her body back into the sea where they formed lustrous pearls.
Painting from the House of Marcus Fabius Rufus in Pompeii, Italy, depicting the Greco-Roman goddess Venus Aphrodite, c. 1st century BC.
Other versions of the myth would have Aphrodite emerging naked from the sea foam, with only a string of pearls around her neck.
Greek legend also speculated that pearls were the tears of gods, an idea which endured for thousands years.
Amethyst:
The sobering gem
The Greeks named amethyst from the word “amethystos” meaning “not intoxicated” dating back to an ancient tale involving Bacchus, the god of wine.
Amethyst, a semi precious stone, is a purple-violet variety of quartz, which gets its colour from impurities of iron and the presence of other trace elements.
When exposed to severe heat, amethyst becomes yellow.
Up until the 18th century, amethysts were coveted stones and had more or less the same value as diamonds, sapphires, rubies, and emeralds.
After the discovery of large deposits in locations such as Brazil, the amethyst lost most of its value and is now considered a semiprecious stone.
Greek Gold and Amethyst Ring, 1st Century BC.
The word amethyst comes from the Greek word amethustos, meaning not intoxicated, in other words sober and comes from the ancient Greek myth which claims amethysts could prevent drunkenness.
Ancient Greek myths and beliefs about amethysts
A Greek amethyst ringstone with Athena, Hellenistic period, c. 1st century BC.
In ancient Greece it was believed that to wear amethyst, helped its wearer think clearly, as well as preventing drunkenness, for this reason, drinking vessels were carved from it in the belief that it would keep the drinker sober.
Large gold ring with amethyst, Hellenistic ca. 2nd century B.C.
The ancient myth of Dioysus (Bacchus):
Greek god of wine and the creation of amethyst
Dionysus (Bacchus) Greek god of wine. Caravaggio. 1598
As is usual with all myths, the Greek myth of Dionysus, god of wine, is no different; it has many variations.
In a fit of rage, Dionysus, who had been insulted by a mortal, vowed to kill the next one unfortunate enough to cross his path.
Just at that moment, the beautiful young maid, Amethyst, who happened to be on her way to the temple of the goddess Artemis (Diana), goddess of the hunt, had the bad luck to be the first mortal the raging Dionysus set eyes on.
At once, without thinking clearly about what he was about to do, with one wave of his thyrsus, his pinecone-topped magic staff,
Dionysus, conjured up a couple of fierce tigers to eat poor Amethyst up.
In the nick of time, she was saved by goddess Artemis, who had realized what was about to happen and quickly turned Amethyst into a white stone statue, in order to save her from the ferocious tigers.
On seeing the beautiful statue, Dionysus was overcome by a wave of remorse for what he was about to do and tears of wine poured from his eyes, falling upon the brilliant white statue, turning it purple.
Rose Quartz:
The love stone – a symbol of passion and adoration
In Greek mythology, rose quartz was used by Aphrodite and Eros to restore, renew, and recharge love. Photo Sharon Pruitt / EyeEm / Getty Images
Quartz, a hard, crystalline mineral composed of silica, is usually called rock crystal or clear quartz.
It’s colorless and transparent; however, there are lots of coloured varieties, including citrine, rose quartz, amethyst and smoky quartz, the colour of which is a result of impurities in the stones.
Rose quartz has a pale pink to rose red hue due to traces of titanium, iron, or manganese.
The Ancient Greeks called quartz κρύσταλλος (krustallos), which comes from the Ancient Greek κρύος (kruos) meaning ice – cold.
Some ancient Greek philosophers believed the mineral to be a form of supercooled ice (also known as undercooling, the process of lowering the temperature of a liquid or a gas below its freezing point without it becoming a solid).
Rose quartz in Greek mythology
Rose Quartz Image courtesy Commercial Minerals
Eros (Roman Cupid), the god of desire, love and attraction, was convinced that the power of the pink gemstone, known a rose quartz, was so strong, it could inspire love in humankind and so, he brought it down from heaven, in order to spread love and romance throughout the mortal world.
For the ancient Greeks, as early as 600 BC, rose quartz was known as the love stone, capable of attracting love, renewing old love and helping to form close bonds with friends and family.
The stone was also rumoured to be a great healer and have a powerful effect on the human mind, body and soul.
The Greek myth, which best explains why rose quartz is associated with love, lust, passion and despair, is the tale of Adonis and Aphrodite.
Adonis and Aphrodite
The Awakening of Adonis (1899-1900) by John William Waterhouse 1900
Here is just one version of the myth, of which there are many.
Aphrodite (Venus), Greek goddess of love, was besotted with her mortal lover, Adonis, which enraged her ex lover, Aries (Mars), god of war, so much, he was out for revenge.
Chance for revenge came one day when Aries spotted Adonis who was hunting alone in the woods.
Aries, transformed himself into a wild boar and charged, mortally wounding Adonis, with his sharp tusks.
Aphrodite, upon hearing the cries of her lover, ran to his side, cutting herself on a briar bush on the way, only to witness Adonis bleeding to death.
As Aphrodite held the dying Adonis in her arms, their blood dropped upon the ground; red anemones sprang up where the drops of Adonis’s blood fell and Rose Quartz gemstones formed in the earth from the blood of Aphrodite.
Carnelian:
A stone of true love
The ancient Greeks believed that carnelian, a brownish-red mineral, was a stone of true love
Carnelian (also spelled cornelian), is a brownish-red, translucent to opaque mineral, commonly used as a semi-precious gemstone.
The color can vary greatly, ranging from pale orange to an intense almost-black.
It has been found in Peru; Ratnapura, Sri Lanka,Thailand, Indonesia, Brazil, India, Russia (Siberia), and Germany.
Carnelian and Ancient Greece
The ancient Greeks believed that carnelian, was a stone of true love, they also prescribed the use of carnelian for strengthening the teeth, curing diseases of the nervous system and reducing fevers.
Masters of the art of gemstone engraving or carving, known as glyptography, the Greeks used gemstones, such as carnelian and agate, to create intaglios, cameos and miniature sculptures.
Glyptography is distinct from the craft of lapidary, which is used to maximize the sparkle of a gem through faceting.
Ancient engraved gems, with intricate patterns and pictures in sunken relief, are known as intaglio.
Usually the subjects were portraits of either individuals or gods and were usually worn, mounted on rings and pendants but were also used as wax seals in order to authenticate documents.
Intaglios and cameos
Intaglios and cameos. Ancient engraved gems, with intricate patterns and pictures
The Pylos Combat Agate:
The most exciting discovery in Greece in the last 65 years
sealstone found in a tomb, showing three warriors in combat
On May 28, 2015, in Pylos, southwest Greece, archaeologists discovered The Griffin Warrior Tomb, dating back to the Mycenaean Civilization, approximately 1750 BC – 1050 BC.
Found in the tomb was a small, mounted agate sealstone, which could be worn on the wrist.
It measures only 3.6 cm (1.4 inches) and depicts, in remarkable detail, three warriors in combat; one slaying an opponent and a third appearing to be lying dead in the foreground.
The hero is wearing a cod piece and something similar to the seal itself on his wrist; his two opponents are wearing the same patterned kilts.
The details of the stone are so small they can only be seen with a magnifying glass, leading archeologists to believe that the engraver must have used a magnifying glass to carve it.
A Greek Carnelian ring stone. Hellenistic period, c 1ST century BC.
Cameos, have excess material removed to leave a raised image in relief.
Although intaglios are concave and cameos are convex, the ancient methods used to create both were similar (apart from the modern use of power tools), as those used today.
Onyx cameo set in gold hoop. Greek (Ptolemaic), Early Hellenistic period, 278-270/269 B.C. Large cameo portrays Ptolemy II Philadelphos and his sister-wife Arsinoe II.
Greek jewellery today
Archeological discoveries of Ancient Greek jewelry, from all over Greece and the Greek islands, are a huge source of inspiration for Greek jewellery designers and craftsmen of today, who, along with the modern techniques, often incorporate ancient ones too.
In the 1960s and 1970s, Greek jewelers, especially the well – known Lalaounis and Zolotas, put Greece well and truly on the map when it comes to Jewellery, with their magnificent pieces, influenced by their country’s rich history.
The Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry Museum (ILJM), in Athens, is the first museum, dedicated to the art of jewellery in Greece; in fact, it’s one of the few of its type worldwide.
In this unique place, you can drink in the long and rich history of Greek jewels and at the same time; feast your eyes on many examples of fine artistry.
It’s definitely worth a visit if you happen to be in Athens.
