Cinema Paradiso – Sicily Vs Cinema Elektra – Loutraki Greece

Elektra Cinema - Loutraki - Corinthia - Greece

Elektra Cinema – Loutraki – Corinthia – Greece

 

Yet again, last night, I watched Giuseppe Tornatore’s splendid film “Cinema Paradiso”, awarded the Oscar for Best Foreign Language Film in 1989, and once again vivid memories flooded back, of the many summer evenings, spent at the open-air cinema; Elektra, in Loutraki.

Why this happens? I don’t know, the mind and how it associates certain things is a mystery, to me at least!

Cinema Paradiso is an indoor Cinema in Sicily, a few years after World War II, The Elektra Cinema, outdoors and in Loutraki, Greece, was first visited by me about twenty five years ago.

Maybe it’s the Italian scenery, the village life, so similar to Greek village life, whatever it is, I love both the film, “Cinema Paradiso”,  and the Elektra cinema!

 

Poster for the award-winning film "Cinema Paradiso"

Cinema Paradiso – The Film

 

Cinema Paradiso, (A fictional cinema, in the fictional village of Giancaldo, Sicily) is a film, about lost innocence and nostalgia, directed by Giuseppe Tornatore.

Salvatore (Toto), a six year old boy played by Salvatore Cascio, who lost his father at the end of World War II, befriends Alfredo, played by the great French film star Philippe Noiret, the projectionist at the local cinema: “Cinema Paradiso”.

Here begins Toto’s love of films and a poignant relationship with Alfredo, who becomes a father-figure to him.

 

Toto (Salvatore 'Totò' Di Vita - Child) & Alfredo - Projectionist at Cinema Paradiso

Toto (Salvatore ‘Totò’ Di Vita – Child) & Alfredo – Projectionist at Cinema Paradiso

 

The village priest, Father Adelfio, who is also the local film censor, demands that Alfredo cut out all “inappropriate scenes”.

Alfredo does as asked, however, unbeknownst to him, Toto has collected all the cut offs and has stored  them in a box under his bed.

Eventually, after being taught by Alfredo, Toto becomes the assistant projectionist and when offered a job on mainland Italy, Alfredo encourages him to accept.

Alfredo has recognized Toto’s talent and knows that the small village of Giancaldo (Fictional) has nothing to offer him and so he advises Toto:

Don’t look back, don’t write, and don’t give in to nostalgia

 

Toto & Alfredo a scene from the Oscar -winning film "Cinema Paradiso", directed by Giuseppe Tornatore

Toto & Alfredo a scene from the Oscar -winning film “Cinema Paradiso”, directed by Giuseppe Tornatore

 

 Toto left Sicily and didn’t return until thirty years later, after being informed of Alfredo’s death.

He returned as a famous film director; he had followed his passion.

 

After not returning to his hometown in 30 years, Salvatore (Toto) makes a pilgrimage back for Alfredo’s funeral - Photograph: - Arrow Films

After not returning to his hometown in 30 years, Salvatore (Toto) makes a pilgrimage back for Alfredo’s funeral – Photograph: – Arrow Films

 

After Alfredo’s funeral, Toto’s mother gives him a present from Alfredo, which he doesn’t open until he is home, it’s a film, made from all the cut out scenes that Toto’s mother had found under his bed, and given to Alfredo.

It is a beautiful film, if you haven’t seen it, you must!

 

The Elektra Summer Cinema

Loutraki – Greece

 

Elektra Cinema Loutraki - Corinthia - Greece

Elektra Cinema Loutraki – Corinthia – Greece

 

The Elektra Summer Cinema - Loutraki - Greece

The Elektra Summer Cinema – Loutraki – Greece

 

Open-air cinemas are the very essence of Greek summers, sadly,  they are slowly becoming a thing of the past.

When I first came to Loutraki there were four or five, now, I think the only one left is the Elektra.

The Elektra really is a “Cinema Paradiso”.

 

The Elektra Summer Cinema - Loutraki - Greece

The Elektra Summer Cinema – Loutraki – Greece

 

The Elektra, one of the most historic open air cinemas in Greece, which  has been continuously operating since 1937, sits by the harbour in Loutraki, surrounded by pine and eucalyptus trees, with vivid-coloured bougainvillea trailing over the walls.

It’s heaven to sit there on a summer evening with a cool breeze blowing off the sea, the gentle lapping of the waves and the heady aroma of jasmine, intermingled with the mouth watering smell of souvlaki being grilled, for the interval.

 

The Elektra Summer Cinema - Loutraki - Greece

The Elektra Summer Cinema – Loutraki – Greece

 

 

Summers Past

 

Once the Elektra has opened we know that summer has truly arrived.

There are two showings every night, one at nine, when the sun has gone down, and one at eleven.

Wednesdays and Thursdays are the days allotted to children’s films, which are dubbed into Greek (all other foreign films have Greek subtitles).

Through experience, I realized it was better to go to the early showing.

Because of the Electra’s close proximity to apartment buildings, the sound was turned down very low after midnight, so, if you couldn’t read the Greek subtitles, you had a problem!

My children loved it, most Tuesdays; we would sit at the seafront and, just as the sun was setting, take them along to the cinema.

We would give them money for souvlaki and chips, which were served during the interval, get them settled in their seats, and then enjoy a drink, at a little café, next door to the cinema, and collect the children, once the film ended.

One summer, when my sister was here with her family, my daughter Nais, about seven years old at the time, took her cousins, aged about four and five to see the film Bambi, or some such.

We dropped them off as usual and went on to our little café.

We were finishing our drinks, and about to collect the children from the cinema when I saw all three of them heading towards us from the opposite direction of the cinema.

Nobody had thought about the film being dubbed into Greek.

Sophie and Matthew, knowing not a word of Greek couldn’t understand a thing, so, Nais, instead of coming back to us, very kindly took them on a tour of Loutraki!

I still shudder at the thought of those three young children sauntering around at night on their own!

 

The Elektra Summer Cinema - Loutraki - Greece

The Elektra Summer Cinema – Loutraki – Greece

 

Cinema Paradiso

Piazza Umberto I – Palazzo Adriano – Sicily

 

Piazza Umberto I - Palazzo Adriano - Sicily

Piazza Umberto I – Palazzo Adriano – Sicily

 

The film “Cinema Paradiso” was filmed in the fictional Sicilian town called Giancaldo, however, the main filming location was the real town of Palazzo Adriano, in Sicily, in its central square, Piazza Umberto I.

The actual Cinema Paradiso building was a temporary set, built for the film and later dismantled, there is, however, a small Cinema Paradiso Museum, located in the town hall, where you can see props, photos, and seats from the film, and the staff there, often play the film’s soundtrack.

 

Piazza Umberto I - Palazzo Adriano - Sicily - Film Location for “Cinema Paradiso”

Piazza Umberto I – Palazzo Adriano – Sicily – Film Location for “Cinema Paradiso”

 

Baroque Fountain - Piazza Umberto I - Palazzo Adriano - Sicily

Baroque Fountain – Piazza Umberto I – Palazzo Adriano – Sicily

 

In Piazza Umberto I, you can see the iconic octagonal Baroque fountain, which dates from 1608 and the church where, in the film, the funeral of Toto’s  old friend Alfredo, the projectionist at the local “Cinema Paradiso” was held.

 

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